Glossary of Swimming Pool and Spa Parts

Find the Name, Meaning and Purpose of Any Pool Part

Concrete swimming pools and spas are made up of many parts, each with a specific purpose. This glossary explains what each term means, what the part normally looks like, what it does and where it is found.

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The categories are ordered with concrete pool renovation, finishes, structural work, coping, painting and lighting first, followed by equipment and general pool terminology.

Swimming Pool Renovation & Resurfacing Terms

The words owners, builders and trades use for renewing, repairing or transforming an existing concrete swimming pool.

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Pool Renovation

Refers to major upgrades or improvements made to an existing swimming pool. This can include replacing coping and paving, retiling the pool interior, changing the pool’s shape, modernizing finishes, or updating structural features. Renovation is usually a broader project that can transform both the look and function of a pool. Renovation basically means an old swimming pool will look brand new when it is complete.

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Pool Resurfacing

A process of applying a new interior finish to the pool shell. Common resurfacing materials include pebble-finish, quartz-finish, white-plaster, or ceramic/porcelain tiles. Resurfacing means replacing worn, rough, cracked, or stained pool surfaces and gives the pool a fresh, watertight layer while improving aesthetics. When a swimming pool has waterline tiles, resurfacing usually means keeping the original tiles and replacing the surface below the tile line. Resurfacing can also mean changing the interior type, from a pebble interior to a fully tiled pool.

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Fully Tiled

Means the pool’s entire interior is lined with small ceramic, porcelain, or glass mosaic tiles (instead of pebble or render). Fully tiled pools are considered premium: they’re smooth, durable, resistant to chemicals and algae, and offer a luxury finish. This is often the most expensive resurfacing / renovation choice.

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Pool Repairs

Targeted fixes to damaged parts of the pool. Examples include repairing cracks in the shell, replacing broken or loose tiles, fixing rust spots caused by corroding steel reinforcement, or sealing leaks. Repairs are usually smaller in scope than full renovation or resurfacing.

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Pool Restoration

Similar to renovation, but often used to describe bringing an old or neglected pool back to near-original condition. Restoration may include cleaning, repairing, repainting, and minor resurfacing — aiming to make the pool look original again without necessarily changing its design.

Pool Revamp

A modern term for giving a pool a cosmetic and functional upgrade. This might mean updating coping and paving, adding new waterline tiles, installing LED lighting, or refreshing surfaces. It usually suggests improving appearance and usability without complete changes.

Pool Remodeling

A more American term but sometimes used in the United States too. Remodeling often implies design changes — like reshaping steps, converting a deep pool to a shallow one, adding a spa section, or changing the pool’s depth.

Pool Refurbishment

Closely related to restoration; typically means renewing worn-out finishes, equipment, and features. Refurbishment often includes replacing outdated filtration equipment, new plumbing, or updating surfaces without changing the basic pool structure. Basically, refurbishment is mostly related to the pool function and not the aesthetics.

Pool Shapes & Designs

Common names for swimming pool outlines and design styles. A shape describes the plan view of the pool, not its interior finish.

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Roman style

an elegant & classic swimming pool design of a rectangular pool with one or both ends featuring semi-circular or arched shapes, while the main part of the pool is a rectangle with rounded corners. Roman style is timeless, used hundreds of years ago and depicted in paintings of ancient Rome. It has been popular throughout the 20th century, with many installed during the 70’s before fashion changed to free form, kidney shaped and then rectangular pools again. Roman style made a comeback in the early 2000’s and is still very popular, especially amongst the elite suburbs of Los Angeles.

Free Form Pool

a pool without strict geometric lines, often curving and organic in shape, blending with landscaping. Free form pools are normally used as nature pools, designed to look like a natural ground of water.

Natural Pool

a pool designed to mimic natural ponds, often with organic shapes and sometimes biological filtration instead of chemicals — another name for a “free form” swimming pool.

Geometric Pool

a swimming pool with straight edges, sharp angles, and symmetrical design. Popular in modern and formal settings.

Grecian Pool

a rectangle-shaped pool with cut-off diagonal corners, giving a formal but softer appearance. Typically these pools may have a Roman style entrance on one end and a Roman style seat in the deep end, but not always.

Kidney Pool

a pool shaped like a kidney bean, popular for its curves and natural look. This shape was especially popular in the 80’s & 90’s.

L-Shaped Pool

a swimming pool shaped like the letter “L”, combining two rectangular sections. These pools frequently feature a long lap lane, and the smaller part of the “L” shape is usually reserved for steps and a seating area.

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Oval Pool

an elongated circular or egg-shaped swimming pool, very common in above-ground styles.

Circular Pool

a pool designed in a round shape. Common in above-ground pools, it offers a balanced look and uniform structure.

Figure 8 Pool

a swimming pool shaped like the number eight. It combines two rounded ends connected in the center, providing a flowing but structured design.

B-shape Pool

a swimming pool shaped similar to a capital B, sometimes with one of the circular round areas of the “B” smaller than the other. Quite frequently these pools tend to have a spa in the middle of the B — this spa tends to be higher than the B-shaped swimming pool so the overflow/spillway cascades water into the swimming pool.

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Pool Interior Finishes & Descriptions

Terms used to describe tile, pebble, plaster, paint and the visual effects seen through swimming pool water.

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Fully Tiled Interior

A premium finish where the entire pool is covered in small ceramic, porcelain, or glass mosaics. It looks like neat rows of tiles with grout lines that reflect light beautifully. Its job is maximum durability, easy cleaning, and a luxurious appearance. Fully tiled pools are found on all interior surfaces: walls, floors, steps, benches, and ledges.

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Waterline Tiles

A row or band of tiles around the top of the pool at water level. They look like 1–3 rows of mosaics directly beneath the coping. Their job is to prevent staining and make cleaning easier where the water meets the wall. They’re always located just under the coping, running around the pool perimeter.

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Pebble Interior

A hard-wearing interior finish made by mixing small natural stones with cement, then washing back the surface to expose the pebbles. It looks textured and speckled, in colors ranging from light natural tones to dark, lagoon-like hues. Its job is to be durable and chemical-resistant. It is applied across the whole interior: walls, floors, steps, and benches. It used to be known as pebble finish but that version was thicker and abrasive — the new pebble surfaces are non-slip and smooth.

Quartz / Marble Sheen (including quartz finish)

A smooth render made with quartz or marble chips. It looks polished, usually in light pastel blues or whites, but it has a reputation for mottling or color fade if chemistry is poor. Its job is to give a sleek, shiny interior finish. It’s applied across the full pool interior. quartz finish in particular is known to deteriorate quickly if not perfectly installed or maintained.

Pool Plaster (Render/Marcite)

A traditional cement-based coating applied over the shell. It looks smooth and plain, often white or lightly colored. Its job is to create the finished pool interior and help the pool retain water; it is not a structural waterproofing membrane. It is found across the walls, floor, steps and benches.

Pool Paint – Two-Pack Epoxy

A coating system painted onto the interior. It looks like a glossy paint finish in a solid color. Its job is to provide color and a protective film over the shell or render. It’s applied on walls, floor, and steps.

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Pool Paint – Chlorinated Rubber

An older type of pool paint. It looks similar to epoxy but normally chalks and fades faster. It was once used as an economical interior coating, but today it is mainly found on older pools awaiting renovation.

Step Tread Tiles / Edge Markers

Contrasting tiles or strips applied to steps, seats, and ledges. They look like darker or lighter lines marking the edges. Their job is safety: making the edge of steps or benches clearly visible under water. They are found on every step nose, bench front, and shallow ledge.

Feature Tile Band

A decorative strip of tiles placed around benches, ledges, or walls. It looks like a patterned or colored accent line. Its job is to enhance design, but it can also guide footing. It is located on walls, steps, benches, or across the waterline.

Mosaic Tile Sheets (23mm / 48mm)

Small tiles mounted on mesh, paper, or glue dots in sheet form. They look like flexible sheets of tiny squares, allowing them to curve around shapes. Their job is to make tiling curved pool surfaces possible and consistent. They’re found on fully tiled interiors, waterlines, and feature bands.

Coping (Bullnose, Square, Drop-Face)

The capping stone around the top of the pool. Bullnose looks rounded, square looks sharp and modern, drop-face has a deeper front for a floating effect. Coping is visible all around the pool edge and finishes the top of the bond beam. It protects the pool structure and frames the design.

Coping Drip Groove

A small groove cut into the underside of coping. It looks like a thin channel. Its job is to stop water dripping back under the coping and staining the pool wall. It’s found on the underside of coping stones.

Specks

Tiny colored dots that are mixed into the pool surface. They look like little spots scattered around. Their job is just to add variety so the pool water doesn’t look like one flat color. They are found across the entire pool interior and show up most in sunlight.

Flecks

Shiny or colored chips mixed into the finish. They look like sparkly pieces that glint when the light hits them. Their job is to make the pool water shimmer and look more lively. They are seen all over the inside of the pool, especially on steps and shallow ledges.

Mottle / Mottling

Uneven patches of color in plaster or quartz finishes. It looks like cloudy or blotchy areas instead of one solid shade. It happens naturally in cement-based finishes as they age. It is found across the pool walls and floor, more noticeable in light-colored pools.

Grain

In color terms, grain means the fine variations or speckled look you see across a pool surface, almost like natural stone. It makes the water appear deeper and more natural instead of a flat, single shade. In texture terms, grain is how the finish feels to the touch — it can feel smooth like fine sandpaper or non-slip. Its job is to define both the look and the feel of the pool interior.

Sparkle

The bright flashes of light you see when finishes contain glass beads, flecks, or crystals. It looks like tiny points of light twinkling as the sun hits the surface. Its job is purely visual, giving the water a lively, jewel-like appearance. It is most noticeable on sunny days and in shallow areas.

Shimmer

A softer, glowing effect on the pool surface caused by reflective finishes. It looks like gentle waves of light moving across the water. Its job is to create a luxurious, eye-catching look without being harsh. It is visible across the whole pool, especially when glass mosaics or quartz flecks are used.

Gloss

The shiny, polished look of some pool finishes. It looks smooth and reflective, almost like polished stone. Its job is to make the surface look clean, sleek, and bright. It is seen on tiled finishes, polished pebble, and freshly painted interiors.

Matte

The opposite of gloss, with a soft, flat look that doesn’t reflect much light. It looks more natural and subdued. Its job is to reduce glare and give the pool a calm, understated appearance. It is found in pebble, render, and certain ceramic tile finishes.

Pool Construction Materials & Structure

The concrete shell, reinforcing steel, render, joints and materials hidden beneath the finished pool surface.

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Pool Shell

The main body of a concrete pool. It is the concrete skeleton of the swimming pool — think of it as a giant bowl made from steel reinforced concrete. It forms the floor and walls, and everything else is built onto it. You don’t see the raw shell once the pool is finished because it’s covered with tiles, plaster, or pebble, but it is the backbone of the pool. It sits directly in the excavated ground.

Bond Beam

The thick, heavily reinforced top edge of the pool shell. It runs all the way around the top of the pool like a collar. Once finished, you don’t see it because it’s hidden under the coping stones. Its job is to support the coping and distribute stresses evenly, so the pool edge doesn’t crack.

Shotcrete / Sprayed Concrete

This is how most concrete shells are built today. Concrete is sprayed at high pressure through a hose onto the steel reinforcement cage. It looks wet and sandy when applied, but once cured it becomes the dense, rock-hard shell that forms the pool.

Reinforcement Steel (Rebar)

Long steel rods tied together in a grid or cage inside the concrete. They look like ribbed steel bars before concrete covers them. They provide strength and flexibility, stopping the pool from cracking under the weight of the water and shifting soil. They’re completely hidden once the pool concrete is finished.

Cold Joint

This is the line where one concrete pour meets another. You won’t see it from inside the pool because it’s plastered over, but builders know exactly where these joints are. They’re weak points and can cause cracks on the pool surface or tiles that are laid over cold joints.

Shell Waterproofing

Coatings or membranes painted or sprayed onto the shell. On the inside they may look like a cement slurry or epoxy coating, but they’re always covered by the final finish. Their job is to make sure the concrete doesn’t absorb water and leak.

Backfill

Soil, gravel, or crushed rock packed around the outside of the shell after it’s built. You don’t see it, but it holds the pool shell steady and improves drainage.

Formwork

Temporary wooden or steel mold used when pouring certain parts of the shell. It looks like panels or planks bracing the sides until the concrete cures. Once the concrete has set, the formwork is removed.

Bond Coat / Slurry

A thin, paint-like mix of cement applied to the inside surface of the shell before tiling or rendering. It looks like a gray paste brushed onto the walls. Its job is to act like glue between the rough shell and the smooth finish.

Render / Plaster

A cement-based coating applied over the shell to smooth it out before the final finish. It looks like a smooth gray surface before tiles or pebble are applied. Its job is to prepare the shell prior to tiling so the finish bonds properly.

Screed Bed

A layer of mortar laid down before tiling, used to get the surface perfectly level. It looks like a flat gray layer under the tiles, usually done in preparation for paving.

Fillet / Cove

A rounded strip of render / mortar installed where the pool wall meets the floor. It looks like a smooth curve instead of a sharp corner. It helps reduce stress on tiles and makes water flow more smoothly — basically, any round or curved area of a swimming pool interior.

Expansion / Movement Joint / Caulking

Flexible joints built into certain areas of the pool to allow for natural ground movement. They often look like a narrow silicone or rubber-filled line between concrete sections or around the coping. They stop cracking by letting the structure flex slightly.

Rust Treatment Zone

If steel rebar corrodes and pushes through the shell, the exposed area is cut out, cleaned, and patched. To the eye it looks like a repaired patch in the concrete. Its job is to protect the steel and prevent cracking or spalling in the pool wall.

Read about rust repairs in concrete swimming pools →

Tile Adhesive

A polymer-modified mortar that bonds tiles to the shell. It looks like a gray or white paste trowelled in notches. Its job is to securely attach tiles under water. It’s behind every pool tile, unseen once installed.

Cement Grout

Traditional grout used to fill and protect the gaps between tiles. It looks like fine lines between tiles, usually light gray or white. The adhesive behind the tile provides the bond; grout finishes the joints. It is found in tile joints above and below the waterline.

Epoxy Grout

A resin-based grout. It looks denser and smoother than cement grout, sometimes with a slight shine. Its job is high resistance to chemicals, stains, and water penetration. It’s used in tiled interiors where maximum durability is required.

Tile Movement Joints (Soft Joints)

Flexible silicone or elastomeric joints instead of grout. They look like neat rubbery lines. Their job is to absorb expansion and stop cracking. They’re found at corners, long stretches of tile, and changes of material.

Anti-Slip

Grit or textured strips, sealer, or tape that can be added to external steps or tiles. They look slightly rougher than normal tile. Their job is to improve grip. They’re sometimes found on step treads, ramps, and shallow ledges.

Steps, Ledges & Access

Built-in access and resting features that can often be added or changed during a structural concrete pool renovation.

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Entry Steps

Built-in steps that allow safe entry into a swimming pool. They look like wide, shallow tiers cast into the shell, usually finished in tile, pebble, or plaster. They are located at the shallow end wall of the swimming pool.

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Swim-Out / Bench Seat

A resting ledge or bench seat built into the pool wall. It looks like a horizontal shelf wide enough to sit on, often tiled or finished to match the pool surface. It is located along deep end walls or corners of the swimming pool.

Sun Shelf / Baja Ledge

A shallow platform inside the pool for lounging or children’s play. It looks like a large, flat step or shallow shelf submerged a few centimetres under water. It is located in the shallow end of modern pools, often as part of luxury designs.

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Toe Ledge / Safety Ledge

A narrow ledge running around the deep walls of a pool. It looks like a small underwater shelf, just wide enough for toes. Its job is to give swimmers a foothold for safety in deep areas.

Beach Entry / Ramp

A gradual sloped entry into the swimming pool without steps. It looks like a gently sloping shallow area, similar to walking into the beach. Its job is to provide easy access for children, elderly swimmers, or people with mobility issues.

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Handrail Socket

A cast sleeve set into the pool deck / coping for stainless steel rails. It looks like a small metal sleeve flush with the paving. Its job is to secure a stainless handrail for safe entry and exit.

Ladder Anchor

A socket for removable pool ladders. It looks like a square or round sleeve set in the deck / coping area. Its job is to secure portable ladders into position while keeping them removable.

Grab Rail

A stainless steel bar that aids swimmers entering or exiting the pool. It looks like a curved polished bar fixed into sockets in the deck / coping. Its job is to provide stability and safety for pool owners, especially children and elderly swimmers.

Coping, Deck & Pool Surrounds

The pool edge, paving, drainage and movement details installed around the top of a concrete swimming pool.

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Coping

The stone or concrete edging that finishes the pool perimeter. It looks like a row of wide stones or slabs framing the top of the swimming pool. Its job is to protect the pool shell, provide a safe edge for swimmers, and give a finished look. Natural stone coping lasts 15–25 years, while concrete options may need replacing sooner if exposed to saltwater or chemical damage.

Bullnose Coping

A coping stone with a rounded front edge. It looks like a curved, smooth stone edge. Its job is to create a soft, traditional look and a comfortable handhold for swimmers.

Square-Edge Coping

A coping stone with a clean, sharp-edged finish. It looks flat and straight, giving a crisp, modern profile. Its job is to provide a contemporary edge design.

Drop-Face Coping

Coping with a deeper front face that hangs lower over the pool wall. It looks like a thick block edge with a “floating” shadow-line effect. Its job is to create a luxury appearance by visually deepening the edge.

Cantilevered Edge

A concrete deck that overhangs into the pool instead of separate coping. It looks like the pool deck continues straight to the edge with a slight lip. Its job is to give a seamless edge without separate stone. They were popular in older builds but can crack if expansion joints fail.

Deck Paving / Surrounds

The hardscape area around a swimming pool. It looks like stone paving, tiles, or poured concrete extending around the pool. Its job is to provide safe walking space and integrate the pool into the backyard design.

Expansion Joint (Coping to Deck or paving)

The gap that separates the pool coping from the deck. It looks like a narrow line filled with flexible sealant. Its job is to allow the deck to expand and move without pushing against the pool coping, preventing cracking. Expansion joints should be re-caulked every 5–10 years.

Strip Drain / Channel Drain

A long linear drain fitted into the pool deck. It looks like a narrow trench with a removable grate. Its job is to collect surface water and direct it away from the pool surrounds.

Spoon Drain

A shallow channel cut into concrete or paving for surface runoff. It looks like a narrow trough or groove. Its job is to guide water away from the pool edge into drains or garden beds.

Subsoil Drain (Ag Pipe)

A buried pipe with slots that drains groundwater around the pool. It looks like a corrugated black or white pipe, usually covered in gravel. Its job is to relieve groundwater pressure and keep the pool structure stable.

Inspection Cover (Deck Lid)

An access lid for in-deck pipes, valves, or cables. It looks like a round or square cover set into the deck / coping, sometimes stone-matched, sometimes metal. In older pools, some lids were engraved with the builder’s business name.

Mitred Coping Corner

A corner where two coping stones are cut and joined at a 45° angle. It looks like a neat diagonal join in the corner. Its job is to give a clean, professional finish to pool edges.

Coping Overhang

The section of coping stone that projects into the pool interior. It looks like a slight lip overhanging the waterline. Its job is to provide shade for tiles, reduce staining, and make the edge easier to grip.

Deck / Paving Sealant

A protective coating applied to pool surrounds. It looks like a clear or colored film over stone or concrete. Its job is to protect paving from chemical splashes, salt, and weathering. Sealants need reapplication every 2–5 years depending on exposure.

Non-Slip Strip / Safety Edge

A textured insert or strip placed on paving or coping. It looks like a rough or gritted band across the surface. Its job is to improve traction and reduce slips near the pool.

Deck / paving Drain Grate

The visible cover on a strip or channel drain. It looks like a long slotted grate made of plastic, stainless steel, or stone. Its job is to stop large debris while allowing water flow.

Tiling, Resurfacing, Coping, Rust Repairs and Pool Shape Changes

These are core Pool Care LA services for existing concrete swimming pools in Los Angeles. Send Pool Care LA clear photos of the pool and the problem for an initial discussion.

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Pool Painting Jargon

Preparation products, tools and terms used when applying two-pack epoxy coatings to suitable concrete pool interiors.

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Epoxy Sealer

A thin, clear or lightly tinted liquid that gets rolled or brushed onto the pool surface before the topcoat goes down. It soaks into the concrete or old render, binding any loose particles and creating a stable, sealed base so the epoxy paint bonds properly. It’s usually applied directly to the bare shell after preparation, acting like a primer.

Epoxy Filler

A paste-like product used to smooth out rough spots, small hollows, or surface imperfections in the pool shell before painting. Once it hardens, it can be sanded smooth so the final coating has an even finish.

Epoxy Putty

A clay-like material, sometimes in a roll or stick that you knead together before applying. It’s used for patching more noticeable cracks, chips, or areas where concrete has broken away. It hardens quickly and becomes waterproof and rock-solid.

Roller

The main tool used to apply epoxy paint and sealers across the large surface areas of a pool. It usually has a medium to long nap sleeve that holds enough paint to cover evenly without leaving heavy marks.

Brush

Still essential in epoxy painting, even though most of the pool is rolled. It’s used to cut into tight corners, around fittings, in step edges, and anywhere the roller can’t reach.

Painter’s Tape

The colored masking tape used to create clean edges and protect areas that shouldn’t be painted. In pool work, it’s often laid along the waterline, around fittings, or on adjoining stone and coping.

Surface Grinder / Sander

Often used before any epoxy is applied. It strips away loose paint, chalky plaster, or rough patches of concrete so the new coating can stick properly.

Mixing Paddle

Attaches to a drill and is used to blend epoxy components together. Because epoxy paint comes in two parts that need to be mixed evenly, the paddle ensures there are no unmixed streaks that could leave weak spots.

Buckets / Mixing Pails

Sturdy plastic or metal buckets used to measure and combine the epoxy components, marked so the correct ratios of resin and hardener can be mixed.

Protective Gear

Because epoxy gives off strong fumes, protective gear is always part of the kit, though not usually needed outdoors. This includes respirators, gloves, goggles, and coveralls.

Drop Sheets / Plastic Sheeting

Large plastic sheets spread over coping, paving, or nearby landscaping to stop splashes of epoxy sealer or paint.

Extension Pole

Connects to the roller so painters can reach deep into the pool floor and across wide walls without climbing in too often.

Sandpaper / Abrasive Pads

Even after patching with epoxy filler or putty, the repaired spots need sanding smooth. Sandpaper or abrasive pads are used to feather the edges so they blend seamlessly into the rest of the pool surface.

Cleaning Solvent

Before sealing or painting, a cleaning solvent such as acetone is sometimes used to wipe down surfaces or tools. It removes grease, oils, or any residue that could stop the epoxy from bonding properly.

Pool Lighting & Electrical

Pool and spa light parts, cable routes, transformers and control systems. Electrical installation work must be completed by a licensed electrical worker.

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Pool Light

A round waterproof light that fits into the pool wall. It usually looks like a flat disc or faceplate that finishes flush with the interior, though some surface-mounted models sit on top of the wall instead of recessed. Its job is to illuminate the pool at night and create ambience. It is located below the waterline, most often in the deep end wall, and is wired back through conduits to an external transformer for safety.

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Pool Light Niche

A built-in housing that holds the light unit. It looks like a circular cavity cast into the shell that allows the light to sit flush with the wall. Its job is to provide a waterproof chamber for the light and allow easy replacement. It is always located inside the concrete pool wall at the chosen light position.

Surface-Mounted Pool Light

A light that sits on top of the wall surface instead of recessed. It looks like a thicker round fixture that protrudes slightly from the pool wall. Its job is the same as a niche light but it is easier to retrofit into existing pools. It is located on the inside pool wall and fixed directly to the finish.

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Conduit

A protective pipe that carries the pool light cable. It looks like a plastic tube leading away from the light housing. Its job is to route and protect the electrical wire running from the light to the junction box. It is hidden behind the wall, running through the shell out to the deck / coping area.

Cable Junction Box

A sealed box where the pool light cable joins external power. It looks like a small covered box, often plastic, though some older systems used metal. Its job is to keep the connection dry and safe while linking the light to the transformer. It is located above water level near the deck / coping or garden area.

Inspection Cover (Cable Cover)

An access cover over the pool light junction box or conduits. It looks like a small round or square lid in the deck / coping. In some older pools it may be a small metal plate, often engraved with the installer’s business name. Its job is to provide access for inspection and maintenance. It is located in the paving or coping around the pool, directly above the cable junction.

LED Pool Light

A modern light unit using LEDs. It looks like a standard pool light faceplate but inside are multiple small diodes. Its job is to provide bright, energy-efficient lighting with long life. It is located in the niche or mounted on the wall and wired through the conduit to the transformer.

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Light Faceplate / Trim

The visible outer cover of a pool or spa light. It looks like a neat round disc in white, stainless steel, or colored plastic. Its job is to hold the light in place, protect the interior, and finish the look. It is located flush against the pool wall at the light position.

Lanolin Sealant

A protective substance used inside pool lights. It looks like a clear / creamy yellow, waxy grease applied around electronic parts. Its job is to protect wiring and connections from moisture and corrosion. It is located inside the light housing around electrical components.

“Tri” Color Light

A pool light that produces three set colors. It looks like a standard LED light but cycles between three color options. Its job is to provide a simple multi-color effect without complex controls.

“Multi” Color Light

A pool light that can display multiple or changing colors. It looks like a normal LED pool light but can shift between a wide range of colors. Its job is to create mood lighting and effects.

Remote Control System

A control unit linked to the transformer. It looks like a small wireless remote that connects wirelessly to a control box; the transformer is also connected to the control box via a power socket. Its job is to turn pool lights on or off and change colors without needing to access the transformer directly. It is located outside the pool, paired with the light transformer and control circuits.

Transformer

An electrical unit that reduces mains power to the voltage required by the pool-light system. It looks like a small box, often mounted near the equipment area or on a house wall. Its job is to supply the light at the correct low voltage. Electrical installation work, wiring and alterations in California must be completed by a licensed electrical worker.

Bonding / Earthing

A protective electrical wire connecting metal parts around the pool. It looks like a green or bare copper wire clamped to ladders, rails, or other metal. Its job is to prevent electric shock by safely grounding stray current. It is located around the pool surrounds and in the equipment area.

Spa Light

A smaller waterproof light for spas. It looks like a compact version of a pool light, sometimes with colored lenses. Its job is to provide safety and ambience in the spa. It is located in the spa wall or footwell, positioned to light seating areas. In most cases, a spa will have the same light as the swimming pool.

Fibre-Optic Pool Lighting

An older pool lighting system using fibre strands. It looks like many tiny points of light or glowing strips. Its job was to light the pool indirectly by carrying light from a separate illuminator box. It is located in the pool wall or floor fittings, with the main light source in a dry enclosure away from the pool.

Pool Fittings: Names & Descriptions

American names for common wall, floor, skimmer, suction and return fittings. A damaged suction cover should be treated as a safety issue and assessed before the outlet is used.

Read the hydrostatic valve information guide →

Skimmer Box

A rectangular fitting built into the pool wall at water level. On the pool deck it shows as a square or round lid you can lift, and underneath is a basket. Its job is to suck in surface water and trap floating leaves and debris before they sink. It is always located at the side of the pool, just below the coping, and is connected to the suction line that leads back to the filter pump.

Weir Door

A swinging flap inside the skimmer opening. It looks like a small gate that moves with the water. Its job is to let water and debris flow into the skimmer while stopping them from floating back out when the pump is off. It is found right at the pool wall opening of the skimmer.

Skimmer Basket

A plastic mesh basket that sits inside the skimmer box. It looks like a small round laundry basket. Its job is to catch leaves, insects, and other debris while still letting water pass through to the pump. It is located directly under the skimmer lid on the pool deck.

Skimmer Lid / Dress Ring

The visible lid above the skimmer box. It looks like a flat plastic or stone cover, often blending in with the paving. Its job is to give access for cleaning while keeping the skimmer basket hidden and safe. It is located flush with the pool surrounds, directly above the skimmer.

Skimmer Throat

The narrow channel between the pool and the skimmer box. It looks like a short tunnel at the waterline. Its job is to funnel surface water and debris into the skimmer. It is located in the pool wall at the waterline, connecting directly into the skimmer body.

Skimmer Equalizer Line

A secondary suction line used in older pools. It looks like a small round wall fitting below the skimmer. Its job was to keep suction flow if the water level dropped too low. It connects into the skimmer suction line but is rarely used in modern pools.

Main Drain / Suction Outlet

A round outlet on the pool floor. It looks like a flat disc or square grate with slots. Its job is to pull water from the bottom of the pool for circulation and allow the pool to be emptied if needed. It is located at the deepest point of the pool and connected directly to the main suction pipe to the pump.

Split Main Drains

Two floor drains spaced apart but plumbed together. They look like matching grates about a foot apart. Their job is to spread suction across more than one outlet to reduce entrapment risk. They are located side by side at the deep end floor and tied into the same suction line. These can also be referred to as split suctions when located on the spa floor.

Anti-Vortex Cover

A domed cover that fits over a main drain. It looks like a raised, rounded grate instead of a flat one. Its job is to reduce dangerous suction by preventing hair or a body from sealing the drain. It is located over the main drain outlet on the pool floor.

Hydrostatic Relief Valve

A one-way valve fitted in the floor sump. It looks like a small spring-loaded insert under the drain cover. Its job is to let groundwater enter the pool if pressure builds under the shell, preventing the pool from popping up. It is located in the sump pot beneath the main drain cover.

Read the complete swimming pool hydrostatic valve guide →

Sump Pot

A recessed chamber built under the main drain. It looks like a small concrete box with pipe fittings inside. Its job is to house the hydrostatic valve and provide connection points for main drain plumbing. It is located at the deepest part of the pool floor.

Vacuum Plate

A flat plastic plate that sits on top of the skimmer basket. It looks like a disc with a hose fitting in the middle. Its job is to allow a vacuum hose to connect to the skimmer while still catching debris in the basket. It is placed inside the skimmer box and connects to a standard vacuum hose.

Dedicated Vacuum Point

A wall fitting for vacuum hoses or suction cleaners. It looks like a small screw-in port on the pool wall. Its job is to provide direct suction for cleaning without using the skimmer. It is usually located halfway down the wall in the deep end and plumbed to the suction line.

Suction Lid (Deck Lid Canister)

A lid on the deck covering an in-deck suction canister. It looks like a round or square lid similar to a skimmer lid. Its job is to give access to leaf canisters or suction points built into the paving. It is located in the pool surrounds and tied into the suction plumbing from the skimmer line.

Return Inlet

A fitting that returns filtered water to the pool. It looks like a small round nozzle in the wall, about the size of a golf ball. Its job is to circulate clean, treated water back into the pool. It is found in the walls just below the waterline and connected to the return line from the filter.

Eyeball Return

A return inlet with a moveable ball nozzle. It looks like a round fitting with a ball that can be swivelled by hand. Its job is to aim the returning water flow, helping circulate chemicals and push debris toward the skimmer. It is located in the pool wall and connected to the return plumbing.

Eyeball Orifice Insert

A small insert inside an eyeball return. It looks like a ring with a hole of different sizes. Its job is to control the speed and pressure of the water coming back into the pool. It is located inside the eyeball return and connects directly to the return line flow.

Wide-Angle Return

A return nozzle designed to spread water broadly. It looks flatter than an eyeball nozzle. Its job is to send water gently over a wider area instead of in one strong stream. It is located in the wall and plumbed to the return line.

Flush Return

A low-profile return fitting that sits flat against the wall. It looks like a small circle almost level with the pool wall. Its job is to return filtered water with no protrusion. It is located in the wall and tied into the return plumbing.

Safety-Grille Return

A return fitting with a built-in protective cover. It looks like a small vent with slots. Its job is to reduce the chance of fingers or hair getting caught. It is found on walls or shallow zones and connected to the return line.

Floor Return

A return outlet built into the pool floor. It looks like a flat round fitting flush with the surface. Its job is to push clean water up from the bottom, improving circulation in deeper pools. It is located on the floor and plumbed into the return line.

Cleaner Wall Fitting (Pressure Port)

A wall fitting for pressure-side cleaners. It looks like a threaded port on the wall. Its job is to supply high-pressure water from a booster pump to power a cleaner. It is located on the wall and connected to the pressure line.

Suction Cleaner Port

A wall suction fitting designed for suction cleaners. It looks like a port similar to a vacuum point. Its job is to provide suction directly to a cleaner hose without using the skimmer. It is located mid-depth on the wall and connected to the suction line, and usually has male threads so it can be “screwed” or twisted on — inside the pool the pipe will have a female threaded PVC pipe, done so the part can be replaced or changed entirely.

Spa Parts & General Terms

The concrete spa shell, seating, jets, air controls and circulation fittings found in attached or standalone spas.

Spa Shell

The reinforced concrete body that forms the spa. It looks like a smaller bowl-shaped structure attached to or separate from the pool. Its job is to contain the spa water, seating, jets, and footwell. It is located next to the pool as an integrated feature or as a standalone structure.

Spa Spillover / Spillway

The opening where spa water flows into the pool. It looks like a tiled gap or lip on the spa’s edge. Its job is to let spa water return to the pool for circulation or visual effect. It is located on the dam wall between the spa and pool.

Spa Bench / Therapy Seat

The seating area within the spa. It looks like a wide concrete ledge shaped for sitting. Its job is to provide comfortable areas where users can sit and feel the jets. It is located around the spa walls, usually in a circular or semi-circular arrangement.

Spa Footwell

The recessed area at the base of the spa. It looks like a deeper bowl-shaped floor area. Its job is to give space for feet while seated and house jets or drains. It is located in the very bottom center of the spa.

Spa Suction Outlets (Dual)

Floor or wall suction fittings connected to the pump. They look like two round drains with covers spaced apart. Their job is to draw water out for filtration and jet circulation while reducing entrapment risk by splitting suction. They are located in the spa floor or low on the walls.

Spa Jet Body

The built-in housing that holds each jet. It looks like a white plastic fitting embedded in the spa shell. Its job is to provide the plumbing chamber for jet inserts. It is located throughout the spa walls and sometimes the floor.

Jet Internals / Nozzles

The removable inserts inside spa jets. They look like small adjustable pieces that snap into the jet body. Their job is to shape the water and air stream, creating the massage effect. They are located inside every spa jet body.

Directional Jet

A spa jet that produces a single adjustable stream. It looks like a round nozzle with a movable center. Its job is to aim a steady massage stream at a chosen spot. It is located in spa walls near seats.

Rotary Jet

A spa jet with a rotating massage action. It looks similar to a directional jet but with an internal spinner. Its job is to provide a moving, kneading sensation instead of a single stream. It is located in therapy seats and wall areas.

Cluster Jet

A compact jet that produces multiple small streams. It looks like a small nozzle with several holes. Its job is to deliver a concentrated massage effect. It is located in groups around seats, often for targeted back massage.

Neck Jet

A jet positioned to hit the neck and shoulders. It looks like a slightly higher-mounted nozzle in the spa wall. Its job is to relieve tension at the top of the spine and shoulders. It is located high on the spa wall behind seats.

Foot Jet

A jet located in the spa footwell. It looks like a round nozzle fitted low in the spa. Its job is to massage the feet and calves. It is located in the spa floor or footwell walls.

Air Injector

A small outlet that produces fine air bubbles. It looks like a tiny round hole or button in the spa seats or floor. Its job is to release streams of bubbles for comfort and a champagne effect. It is located on benches, steps, or the spa floor in clusters.

Air Manifold

The distribution pipe that feeds air to all the injectors. It looks like a plastic header with multiple small hose connections. Its job is to spread blower air evenly to each injector. It is located beneath the spa shell, hidden in the plumbing system.

Venturi Tee

A jet fitting that mixes air into the water line. It looks like a T-shaped pipe with one line for water and a small port for air. Its job is to create the water/air mix that powers spa jets. It is located in the plumbing lines connected to jet bodies.

Air Control Knob

A control on the spa top edge for regulating air. It looks like a small twist knob on the coping. Its job is to allow the user to adjust the amount of air mixed into the jets. It is located on the spa coping or bench edge, connected to the venturi system.

Spa Spill Edge Tile

A durable tile finish applied to the spa overflow edge. It looks like a row of decorative tiles at the top of the spa wall. Its job is to provide a neat, water-resistant finish for the spillover area. It is located along the dam wall where water flows into the pool.

Blower (Air Pump)

A separate pump that forces air into the spa injectors. It looks like a small motorised unit, often in a plastic housing. Its job is to create the bubble effect by supplying air under pressure. It is located near the pool equipment area and connected to the air manifold.

Check Valve (Air Line)

A one-way valve on the spa air line. It looks like a small clear or opaque valve in the air piping. Its job is to stop water from flowing back into the blower when it’s off. It is located on the air plumbing between the spa and the blower.

Special Features & Overflow Systems

Infinity edges, balance tanks, water features and automatic water-level components used in feature pools.

Infinity Edge / Vanishing Edge

A raised wall where pool water spills over into a hidden basin. It looks like the water has no boundary and seems to merge with the horizon. Its job is to create a luxury visual effect while also circulating water into a lower catch basin. It is located on one side of a swimming pool, usually facing a view. During a pool renovation the edge tiles and waterproofing are often upgraded, but the structural wall itself usually lasts the life of the pool.

Catch Basin / Trough

The channel that collects water spilling over from an infinity edge. It looks like a hidden gutter or small secondary pool beneath the weir wall. Its job is to capture the overflowing water and direct it back to the filtration system. It is located below and parallel to the main pool wall. It is critical to keep this basin clean, as leaves and debris collect here.

Surge Tank / Balance Tank

An underground reservoir that stores overflow water. It looks like a buried concrete or plastic tank with pipe connections and access lids. Its job is to balance water levels in pools with infinity edges, perimeter overflows, or deck-level systems. It is located underground near the swimming pool. The float valves inside may need replacement every 5–10 years depending on wear.

Knife-Edge / Perimeter Overflow

A slot overflow running around the entire pool edge. It looks like a thin gap at deck level where water sheets evenly into a hidden gutter. Its job is to create a perfectly still mirror-like pool surface and maximise skimming. It is located around the pool perimeter, integrated into the coping and deck paving.

Overflow Skimmer (Deck / coping Level)

A wide skimmer built at paving height. It looks like a long slot at deck level instead of a small wall opening. Its job is to draw water directly from the surface into a balance tank, keeping the pool water level even with the deck. It is located along the pool edge at paving height.

Scupper / Fountain / Water Feature

A decorative outlet that allows water to pour into the pool. It looks like a metal, tile, or stone spout projecting from a wall. Its job is to create a stream or sheet of water flowing into the pool, often for sound and appearance. It is located on raised pool walls, water features, or spa spillways.

Sheer Descent

A water feature that produces a smooth, even sheet of water. It looks like a narrow horizontal slot often hidden under coping or stone. Its job is to create a “water curtain” effect flowing into the swimming pool. It is located on raised feature walls or the back of spas.

Bubbler / Geyser Jet

A fitting on the pool or spa floor that produces an upward bubbling stream. It looks like a small round nozzle flush with the floor. Its job is to create a playful bubbling effect, often in shallow areas or on tanning ledges.

Laminar Jet

A deck-mounted jet that creates a smooth, glass-like arc of water. It looks like a small round nozzle hidden in the paving, projecting a perfect clear stream of water into the pool. Its job is to create decorative arcs, sometimes lit with fibre optics or LEDs.

Autofill Box (Float Valve Housing)

An in-deck box that holds an automatic water-level valve. It looks like a small lid in the coping or deck, covering a float valve chamber. Its job is to keep the pool water level constant by topping up automatically from the mains supply.

Overflow Waste Outlet

A discharge line for excess water. It looks like a pipe outlet from the balance tank or overflow gutter. Its job is to release excess water from the system during heavy rain or overfilling, preventing flooding.

Pool Plumbing Parts & Materials

Common pressure pipe, fittings, valves and joining materials used underground and around the pool equipment area.

PVC Pressure Pipe (Class 9 / Class 12)

The standard pool plumbing pipe in the United States. It looks like rigid white or gray pipe marked with Class/PN rating (e.g. Class 12/PN12 for higher pressure, Class 9/PN9 for lower). Its job is to safely carry water under pressure. Located underground and at the equipment pad. Lifespan: decades if glued correctly.

Flexible PVC (Spa-Flex)

A bendable pressure hose used in short runs. It looks like ribbed/spiral white hose. Its job is easier routing around tight spots. Note: can soften on strong suction/hot areas; use rigid PVC for long runs. Life: 10–20 years.

DWV Pipe (Drain-Waste-Vent)

Non-pressure pipe you should NOT use on pool pressure lines. It looks similar to pressure PVC but thinner and marked DWV. Its job is household drainage, not pool pressure. Using it on pools risks failures.

Primer & Solvent Cement

The purple/clear liquids used to glue PVC. They look like small tins with brushes. Their job is to soften (primer) and weld (cement) fittings for leak-free joints. Replace tins yearly; keep lids tight.

Elbows / Tees / Reducers / Couplings

Standard PVC joiners. They look like white or gray fittings of various angles and sizes. Their job is to route and adapt plumbing. Last for decades when glued well.

Barrel Unions

Screw-apart joints with O-rings for service. They look like a chunky collar that unscrews. Their job is quick removal of pumps, filters, heaters, cells. Maintenance: lube O-rings; replace 3–5 years if perished.

Union O-Rings

The rubber seals inside unions. They look like round black rings. Their job is to seal threaded union faces. Maintenance: silicone lube twice a year; replace 1–3 years when flattened/cracked.

Ball Valve

A simple on/off valve in PVC. It looks like a straight valve with a colored handle. Its job is isolation for service. Life: 5–10 years (seals).

3-Way Valve (Jandy-style)

A diverter valve with three ports. It looks like a large gray valve with a rotating handle/actuator. Its job is to split flow (e.g. pool vs spa, skimmer vs main drain). Seal kits: 5–7 years. Brands: Jandy, Pentair, Astral.

Check Valve (Non-Return)

A one-way valve to stop backflow. It looks like a clear body with a flapper. Its job is to protect heaters, keep solar loops primed, and stop back-siphon. Flappers: 5–7 years.

PTFE Thread Tape

The white tape for threaded joints. Its job is to seal threads on unions/valves. Replace whenever a joint is remade.

Pressure Test Plug

A rubber expanding plug for testing lines. It looks like a small bung with a wing nut. Its job is to pressure block pipes, usually during test plumbing and sometimes during builds/repairs.

Suction Side: From Pool to Pump

The fittings, lines and pump components that carry water from the pool to the circulation pump.

Suction Manifold

The group of valves that selects where water is drawn from. It looks like several gray PVC valves feeding one pipe into the pump. Maintenance: keep handles free; replace valve seals 5–7 years.

Pump

The main motor that circulates swimming pool water. It looks like a motor with a clear-lid strainer basket on the front. Brands: AstralPool, Davey, Pentair/Onga, Waterco, Hayward. Replacement: 8–12 years (bearings/mech seal wear).

Variable-Speed Pump

A pump with adjustable speeds to save power. It looks like a normal pump with a digital keypad on top. Its job is low-speed filtration, high-speed tasks (heating/cleaners). Brands: Pentair IntelliFlo, Astral Viron, Zodiac FloPro VS. Replacement: 8–12 years.

Pump Strainer Basket

The pre-filter inside the pump. It looks like a small plastic mesh basket under the clear lid. Its job is to catch leaves before they hit the impeller. Maintenance: clean weekly; replace 2–4 years if cracked.

Pump Lid & O-Ring

The clear lid and its seal on the pump pot. It looks like a screw-on or clamp lid with a round rubber O-ring. Its job is to keep airtight seal so the pump can prime. Maintenance: silicone-lube O-ring every 3–6 months; replace 1–2 years or when flattened/cracked.

Mechanical Seal (Pump)

The water seal between motor and wet end. It looks like a small ceramic/carbon spring seal hidden behind the impeller. Its job is to stop leaks along the motor shaft. Replacement: when you see water under the motor (typically 5–8 years).

Impeller & Diffuser

The internal parts of a pump that actually move the water. They look like plastic vaned discs inside the pump. Maintenance: clear blockages; replace if worn (5–10 years).

Dedicated Vacuum Line

A suction port purely for vacuum hoses/cleaners. It looks like a wall fitting mid-depth in the pool. Its job is to give strong suction without using the skimmer.

In-Deck Debris Canister (Suction)

A leaf canister built into paving. It looks like a deck/coping lid with a deep basket below. Its job is to trap large debris before the pump. Maintenance: empty weekly; baskets 1–2 years.

Pool Filtration

Filters, media, valves and terms associated with removing suspended debris from swimming pool water.

Sand Filter

A large round tank filled with sand or glass. It looks like a barrel with a multiport valve on top/side. Its job is to trap dirt as water flows through the media. Brands: Waterco, Astral, Hayward. Media change: every 5–7 years; tank life 15+ years.

Filter Media (Sand / Glass)

The granules inside a sand filter. It looks like brown silica sand or green/clear crushed glass. Its job is to physically trap particles. Maintenance: backwash/rinse; replace 5–7 years (glass may last longer).

Laterals & Standpipe

The internal “fingers” at the bottom of a sand filter. They look like slotted arms around a central tube. Their job is to collect filtered water evenly. Replacement: only if broken (rare).

Cartridge Filter

A tank with a pleated paper-like element. It looks like a tall cylinder with clamp band. Its job is fine filtration without backwashing (great for water saving). Brands: Davey, Astral, Hayward. Maintenance: hose clean monthly; cartridges 1–3 years.

DE Filter

A tank that coats grids with diatomaceous earth powder. It looks like a fiberglass cylinder. Its job is ultra-fine filtration (1–3 microns). Brands: Waterco, Hayward. Maintenance: recharge with DE; grid service as needed. Less common in AU now.

Multiport Valve

The big lever on sand/DE filters. It looks like a 6-position head (Filter/Backwash/Rinse/Waste/Recirc/Closed). Its job is to direct water for filtering or cleaning. Maintenance: spider gasket 5–7 years; keep handle smooth.

Spider Gasket

The rubber ring inside a multiport valve. It looks like a spoked gasket. Its job is to seal ports so water goes the right way. Replacement: 5–7 years or when valve leaks to waste.

Pressure Gauge

The small dial on top of the filter. It looks like a round gauge marked in PSI/kPa. Its job is to tell you when to backwash/clean. Replacement: 3–5 years.

Air Relief / Bleed Valve

A little vent on top of some filters. It looks like a twist or push button. Its job is to purge trapped air. Maintenance: O-ring/lubrication as needed.

Waste/Backwash Line

The pipe that dumps dirty water. It looks like a hose or hard line to a drain. Its job is to carry backwash water away, off the multiport “Waste” port. Check local rules for discharge.

Backflow

The reverse movement of water in plumbing. In pools this means water flowing backward into the clean supply, potentially contaminating it. Prevented with one-way check valves or backflow devices.

Backwash

A cleaning process for sand or DE filters. Water flow is reversed through the filter, flushing trapped debris and sending it out through the waste line.

Centrifugal Pump

A pump that uses a spinning impeller to create pressure and move water. The most common type of pool circulation pump.

Returns, Boosters & Pool Cleaners

Clean-water return plumbing and common robotic, pressure-side and suction-side pool cleaners.

Return Manifold

The set of pipes that send clean water back. It looks like a tee’d set of PVC lines. Its job is to feed wall returns, in-floor cleaning valve, pressure cleaner port, water features, and spa return. Maintenance: valve seals/unions 5–7 years.

Booster Pump (Pressure Cleaner)

A small extra pump for cleaners like Polaris. It looks like a compact pump beside the main equipment. Its job is to pressurise the pressure cleaner port. Brands: Polaris/Pentair. Replacement: 6–10 years.

Robotic Cleaner & Power Supply

A plug-in electric pool robot. It looks like a vacuum with a floating cable and a small transformer box. Its job is independent floor/wall cleaning (no plumbing). Brands: Maytronics Dolphin, Zodiac, Hayward. Wear parts (tracks/brushes) 1–3 years; robot 5–7+ years.

Suction Cleaner

A vacuum that runs off the suction line. It looks like a disc or geared head on a hose. Its job is to use pump suction to collect debris. Plugs into skimmer or dedicated vac line. Hoses/diaphragms 1–3 years.

Leaf Canister (Portable)

Inline canister for suction cleaners. It looks like a clear pod with a basket on the hose. Its job is to catch leaves before the pump basket. Basket 1–2 years, body many years.

In-Floor Cleaning System Parts

Parts in systems that sequence pop-up cleaning heads across the pool floor, steps, benches and ledges.

Pop-Up Head

A retractable cleaning nozzle built into the pool interior. It looks like a small round disc that sits flush with the floor, steps, or benches. When the system runs, the head pops up and shoots a jet of water, then retracts back down. Its job is to sweep debris toward the main drain or debris drain. It is located across the pool floor, steps, benches, and ledges in a grid pattern.

Pop-Up Step Jet

A cleaning nozzle designed for pool steps. It looks just like a pop-up head but is fitted into vertical or horizontal step surfaces. Its job is to flush dirt and debris off the steps into circulation. It is located on the pool steps.

Pop-Up Bench Jet

A cleaning nozzle built into bench seats or ledges. It looks the same as a standard pop-up head but is installed on horizontal bench areas. Its job is to keep benches clear of dirt by pushing debris into the flow of the system. It is located on pool benches and shallow ledges.

Nozzle Insert

A removable tip fitted inside a pop-up head. It looks like a small plastic piece with a hole at a certain angle or size. Its job is to control the spray pattern, direction, and flow rate of each head. It is located inside the pop-up head and can be swapped for different cleaning needs.

In-Floor Zone

A section of the pool that cleans in sequence. It looks like a group of pop-up heads that all rise and spray at the same time. Its job is to divide the pool into cleaning stages, so only one zone runs at once for maximum water pressure. It is located across the pool floor and steps, organized into 4–6 zones depending on pool size.

Distribution Valve (5-Port / 6-Port)

A large valve that directs water to the zones. It looks like a round plastic canister with multiple pipes coming out of the top. Inside is a rotating mechanism that cycles water from the pump to each zone in turn. Its job is to power the in-floor system and sequence the pop-up heads. It is located near the equipment area, plumbed into the return line after the filter.

Valve Housing & Deck Lid

The enclosure that covers the distribution valve. It looks like a round or square lid set into the deck / coping area. Underneath is the valve body. Its job is to hide and protect the valve while keeping it serviceable. It is located in the pool surrounds above the distribution valve.

Debris Drain

A special floor drain designed for in-floor cleaning. It looks like a large flat grate on the pool floor. Its job is to collect debris swept across the floor by pop-up heads and send it toward the debris canister. It is located at the lowest point of the pool floor and plumbed to the canister.

Deck / Coping-Mounted Debris Canister

A large in-deck basket that collects leaves and debris. It looks like a tall in-ground canister with a removable basket inside and a lid on top. Its job is to trap debris before water goes to the filter pump. It is located in the pool surrounds (deck / coping area), directly plumbed between the debris drain and the skimmer box suction line to the pump.

Leaf Catcher Lid

The access cover above a debris canister. It looks like a round lid set into the paving, sometimes plastic, sometimes stone-matched. Its job is to allow cleaning of the basket inside while keeping the canister hidden. It is located in the deck / coping above the debris canister.

Pump (Dedicated In-Floor Pump)

A booster pump used for in-floor cleaning systems. It looks like a standard pool pump but is sized for higher pressure. Its job is to drive water to the distribution valve so the pop-ups can operate. It is located in the equipment area next to the filter.

Filter (Shared or Dedicated)

The filtration unit connected to the in-floor system. It looks like a large cartridge or sand filter. Its job is to remove dirt collected by the in-floor system before water returns to the pool. It is located in the equipment area after the pump and before the return plumbing.

Actuator Mechanism

The internal part of the distribution valve that shifts flow. It looks like a rotating plate or gear assembly inside the valve housing. Its job is to divert water flow from one port to the next, controlling which zone operates. It is located inside the distribution valve body.

Check Valve

A one-way valve installed on the in-floor return line. It looks like a clear or opaque housing with an internal flap. Its job is to stop water flowing backwards into the system when the pump turns off. It is located in the plumbing near the valve or canister.

Pressure Gauge (on Distribution Valve)

A small dial fitted to the valve lid. It looks like a round gauge showing PSI. Its job is to indicate system pressure for troubleshooting. It is located on the top of the distribution valve.

Sanitising & Water Chemistry Equipment

Equipment that produces or doses sanitiser and helps control pool-water chemistry. Never mix chlorine with hydrochloric acid; keep products separate and follow their labels and safety data sheets.

Saltwater Chlorinator Cell

The clear chamber that makes chlorine from salt. It looks like a clear tube with titanium plates. Its job is to produce chlorine as water passes. Installed after filter/heater, before returns. Brands: Astral E series, Zodiac Tri-XO, Waterco, Davey. Cell life 3–7 years.

Chlorinator Control Box

The power/control unit for the cell. It looks like a wall box with buttons/screen. Its job is to set chlorine output & timers. Life 5–10 years.

Mineral Pool System

A chlorinator designed for magnesium/potassium mineral blends. It looks similar to a salt system. Its job is gentler-feeling water for swimming pool owners. Brands: Zodiac MagnaPool, Waterco Hydroxinator, Astral. Same cell life 3–7 years.

pH / ORP Controller

An automatic chemistry controller. It looks like a small panel with two probes and dosing lines. Its job is to measure pH and ORP (chlorine activity) and run dosing pumps. Brands: Pool Controls Chemigem, Astral eQuilibrium, Hayward Sense & Dispense. Probes 12–24 months, tubes 6–12 months.

Acid Dosing Pump & Drum

A small pump that feeds diluted acid. It looks like a peristaltic pump with a suction line into a drum. Its job is to keep pH in range. Maintenance: squeeze tube 6–12 months; check lines/fittings quarterly.

Ozone Generator

A box that makes ozone gas for oxidation. It looks like a small unit with clear tubing plumbed into the return. Its job is to reduce chlorine demand. Replacement: lamp/cell 2–4 years.

UV Steriliser for swimming pools

A clear chamber with a UV lamp inside. It looks like a vertical tube. Its job is to kill microorganizms as water passes. Lamp 12–18 months.

AOP / Hydroxyl System

A combo of ozone+UV that creates powerful oxidisers. It looks like a chamber/box combo. Its job is top-tier water clarity. Brands: Astral Hydroxypure, others. Components 3–5 years.

Sanitiser Electrics & Flow

Flow-sensing components and older chemical-feeder equipment used with chlorinators and heaters.

Flow Switch / Sensor

A safety that confirms water is moving. It looks like a small inline sensor or paddle. Its job is to stop chlorinators/heaters from running dry. Located near chlorinator/heater. Replace 3–5 years.

Inline Chemical Feeder (Legacy)

A tablet chlorinator canister. It looks like a small tube with a lid, plumbed on the return. Its job is to dissolve tablets. Located after filter. Many owners move to salt/mineral systems during renovation and this feature is not normally used anymore.

Pool & Spa Heating

Gas heaters, electric heat pumps and the bypass plumbing used to control flow through heating equipment.

Gas Heater

A box heater that warms pool/spa water quickly. It looks like an outdoor appliance with vents/flue. Its job is fast heat on demand. It’s plumbed after the filter and often before the chlorinator; sometimes on a bypass manifold. Brands: Astral JXi/Viron, Zodiac, Pentair, Hayward. Parts: heat exchanger (cupronickel/stainless), burner, igniter, fan, gas valve, high-limit switch, flow switch. Replacement: 8–12 years.

Heat Pump

An electric “reverse A/C” that heats efficiently. It looks like a big outdoor A/C unit with a fan. Its job is steady, economical heating. Brands in AU: Madimack, EvoHeat, Astral. Parts: scroll compressor, evaporator coil, titanium heat exchanger, expansion valve, controller, defrost, condensate drain. Replacement: 10–15 years.

Heater Bypass Manifold

A set of valves to send water around a heater. It looks like three valves forming a “U”. Its job is to control flow/pressure through the heater and allow isolation. Maintenance: valve seals 5–7 years.

Solar Pool Heating

Roof collectors, sensors, valves and controllers used to circulate pool water through solar-heating systems.

Solar Heating System

A roof-mounted array that warms water with the sun. It looks like black strip rubber or rigid panels across a roof. Its job is to heat pool water by pumping it up to the roof and back. Brands in AU: Sunbather, Boss Solar, Heliocol, Zane (Astral).

Solar Controller

The brains that decide when to send water to the roof. It looks like a small wall-mounted box with temp settings. Its job is to compare roof sensor vs pool sensor and drive a motorised valve/pump. Replacement: 7–10 years.

Motorised Solar Valve / Actuator

The valve that opens the roof loop. It looks like a large 3-way valve with an electric motor on top. Its job is to route return water either through the roof or bypass. Maintenance: actuator gears/seals 5–7 years.

Solar Blanket / Roof Collectors (Strip/Rigid Panels)

The actual solar matting. It looks like black rubber “noodles” or hard polypropylene panels. Its job is to transfer heat from sun to water. Maintenance: check for leaks/UV cracking; lifespan 10–15 years.

Vacuum Relief Valve (Vacuum Breaker)

A small valve at the roof high point. It looks like a little cap/valve on the top header. Its job is to let air in so panels drain when the pump stops (prevents collapse). Replace 3–5 years.

Non-Return / Check Valve (Solar)

Stops roof water draining backwards. It looks like a clear flapper valve. Its job is to hold prime and protect equipment. Replace flap 5–7 years.

Roof Sensor & Pool Sensor

Temperature probes for the controller. They look like small probes with cables. Their job is to measure roof and pool temps. Replace 5–7 years.

Isolation Valves & Unions (Solar)

Service valves and unions on the loop. They look like ball valves and screw unions. Their job is easy service/removal. Replace seals 5–7 years.

Pool Automation & Power

Controllers, timers and relays used to coordinate pumps, lights, heaters, valves and other pool equipment.

Pool Automation Controller

A hub that runs pumps, lights, heaters, valves. It looks like a wall panel or Wi-Fi box. Its job is scheduling and remote control for the swimming pool owner. Located near equipment or indoors. Brands: Astral Viron Connect, Zodiac Aqualink, Pentair IntelliCenter. Life 5–10 years.

Timers / Relays

The on/off brains for single devices. They look like small dial or digital modules. Their job is to switch pumps, chlorinators, lights. Located in the power board. Life 5–7 years.

Viron Connect 10

Designed by AstralPool, this is an advanced automation system for swimming pools and spas. It brings all major functions — such as pumps, heaters, lights, and valves — under one central control. Users can manage settings through a built-in touchscreen or remotely via a smartphone app when paired with the optional internet gateway. The system gives flexibility to direct water flow through spa jets, pool returns, or other outlets, while also allowing precise control over filtration and heating.

Spa Air Blower Equipment

The equipment that forces air through spa injectors to create bubbles and a massaging water effect.

Spa Air Blower

Spa blowers usually look like a rectangular box, and can come in different colors ranging from white, to tan or black. Spa blowers have an electrical cable connected to power & are normally located with the swimming pool’s filtration equipment, standing higher than the sand filter — they are normally balanced on a 40mm white PVC pipe, which is the pipe the air pressure flows through to reach the spa air holes. A spa blower is a device that injects air into the spa through a network of small jets, creating bubbles and a massaging effect in the water. The blower works by drawing in outside air, compressing it with an electric motor, and forcing it through the spa’s pipework. This not only gives the water a lively, bubbling appearance but also enhances relaxation by stimulating the skin and muscles. When you see spa water moving & splashing all over the place, looking like it’s boiling, with tiny bubbles throughout — that is the magic of the spa blower doing its job. a small motor that pushes air to spa injectors. It looks like a compact plastic motor in a weather hood. Connected via air line to the air manifold; protected by a check valve. Located at the equipment area, often higher than water level. Maintenance: keep dry, check check-valve; life 5–8 years.

Air Check Valve & Silencer

The protector for the blower line. They look like a small inline valve and a muffler. Their job is to stop water backing into the blower and reduce noise. Replace 3–5 years.

Maintenance Wear Parts

Service parts that flatten, scale, wear or need periodic replacement during the life of pool equipment.

O-Rings (General)

Circular rubber seals used everywhere. They look like black rings in lids, unions, and valves. Their job is to seal under pressure. Found on pump lids, filter unions, heater unions, chlorinator cells, multiport stems, leaf canisters. Lube with silicone, not petroleum. Replace 1–3 years.

Valve Seal Kits

Replacement gaskets for diverter/multiport valves. They look like rubber/teflon rings and spiders. Their job is to stop bypass/leaks. Located inside valves. Replace 5–7 years.

Cartridge Elements

The pleated cores in cartridge filters. They look like white cylinders. Their job is fine filtration. Replace 1–3 years (more often for heavy use).

Chlorinator Cells

The titanium plate modules. They are inside what is normally a clear or see-through cylinder installed horizontally (rarely vertically, depending on brand). Descale carefully; replace 3–7 years.

Heater Parts

Igniters, sensors, flow switches. Small service items that restore operation. Replace as needed; full heaters last 8–15 years (type-dependent).

Pool Equipment Flow Map

A plain-English overview of how water usually moves from the pool, through the equipment and back to the pool.

Equipment Plumbing Map

A simple way to picture how water moves through a pool. It usually looks like this: suction side (skimmer, main drain, dedicated vacuum line, in-deck debris canister) — water flows through skimmer box or suction point → pump → filter → (optional heater or solar loop) → chlorinator cell / sanitiser → return manifold (returns, cleaner pressure port, in-floor valve, water features, spa). Each plumbing map was unique to the pool equipment it was representing. They were normally located by the equipment pad with pipes branching to and from the swimming pool. Why it matters: it helps any pool owner understand which bit does what when troubleshooting or looking for parts. Most swimming pools no longer have a map layout of the pool equipment & new swimming pools never have them made anymore.

Pool & Construction Powders and Liquids

Common products and terms used in pool chemistry, rendering, tiling, cleaning and concrete construction.

Calcium

In pool terms, calcium usually refers to the hardness of the water. It isn’t something you can see floating around, but when levels are too high, you’ll notice chalky white scale building up on tiles or equipment. If levels are too low, the water becomes aggressive and starts eating into plaster, grout, and even concrete. In construction, calcium compounds are used in cement and lime products, influencing setting time and strength.

Hydrochloric Acid

A clear liquid with a strong smell, normally kept in plastic containers around the pool equipment area. It’s used carefully to lower pH and alkalinity in pool water, and also to clean excess cement or grout haze from tiles and coping stones. In construction, hydrochloric acid is often used for cleaning brickwork, etching concrete surfaces before coatings, or removing efflorescence from masonry.

Chlorine

Comes in different forms — liquid, powder, or tablets — but all of them have that strong bleach smell people associate with pools. It’s the main sanitiser that kills bacteria and algae, keeping the water safe to swim in. In construction, chlorides (like calcium chloride) are sometimes added to concrete as an accelerator to speed up curing, especially in cold conditions.

Buffer (Sodium Bicarbonate)

This looks like a fine white powder, very similar to baking soda. Pool owners add it when their alkalinity levels are too low, because it helps steady the pH and stop it from swinging up and down. In construction, sodium bicarbonate can be used as a mild abrasive cleaner or neutraliser, especially after acid washing concrete or brick.

Waterproof

When something is waterproof, it forms a complete barrier against water passing through. In pools this could be a special membrane, a coating, or additives built into cement products. Waterproofing is critical in basements, retaining walls, bathrooms, and roofing, where membranes, sealers, and admixtures prevent water penetration and structural damage.

Water Resistant

Means a surface can hold up against splashes and moisture for a while, but it’s not impenetrable forever. Grouts, sealants, and even paving stones around pools often fall into this category — they’ll resist water for a time, but eventually need re-sealing or maintenance.

Wash Sand

Sand that has been rinsed to remove dirt, clay, and other impurities. It’s commonly used in mortar mixes, tile beds, and paving bases around pools, giving a strong, even surface for cement and adhesives to stick to.

Triple Wash Sand

Goes through an even more thorough cleaning, so it’s very pure and light in color. Because it has almost no dust or silt, it gives adhesives and mortars the best possible bond — that’s why pool tilers prefer it for bedding tiles or coping stones where strength is critical.

Cement

The fine gray powder that forms the backbone of all concrete and mortar. On its own it’s just powder, but once it’s mixed with sand and water it hardens into a solid material. In pools it’s part of the shell, the render, the bedding for coping stones, and the adhesive that holds tiles in place.

Concrete Sand

Coarser than the washed varieties, with bigger grains you can see clearly. It gives strength to mixes when combined with cement and water, making it the go-to choice for structural work like pool shells, paving bases, and larger concrete areas.

Polymer

In pool work, usually liquid additives that look milky white before being mixed in. Once combined with cement or adhesives, they make the material stick better, flex more, and resist water far longer. Polymers are used in modified mortars, concrete repair products, sealants, and flooring compounds.

Adhesive

In pool building usually means tile glue, either cement-based thinset or an epoxy system. It can look like a gray or white paste or powder before mixing. Its only job is to grab the tiles and hold them firmly to the concrete or mortar beneath, even under constant water pressure and chemical exposure.

Older & Legacy Pool Fittings

Older fittings that may still be found in swimming pools built several decades ago but are rarely installed today.

Flip Hose

An early in-floor cleaning system that used a weighted hose to sweep the pool floor. It looks like a long flexible hose with a weighted end that “flips” across the pool when water pressure changes. Its job was to lift and push debris off the swimming pool floor so it could be collected by the skimmer box. Flip hoses are no longer installed in modern swimming pools and are usually cancelled or removed during pool renovations.

Flip Hose Fountain Button

A decorative fountain-style attachment for flip hoses. It looks like a small round nozzle or cap fitted to the hose end that sprayed water upward like a fountain. These fittings are considered outdated and are usually removed or disconnected during pool renovations.

Fountain Head Fitting

An older deck-mounted nozzle that produced water fountains. It looks like a raised spout or metal nozzle fitted into the deck / coping or surrounding paving. Fountain heads are now considered legacy features and are not often included in modern builds.

Vac Alert Port (Legacy Safety)

An older vacuum safety fitting once used to reduce suction hazards. It looks like a small port connected to suction plumbing, often with a spring-loaded device. Vac Alert ports have been replaced by modern dual suction outlets, split drains, and anti-vortex covers.